Chapter 6 - PEEING & POOPING
GENERAL DISCUSSION
Since mother dogs take care of stimulating and cleaning up after their puppies it may be weeks before you even see a bowel movement from your newborn puppies with moms. So the majority of the following information is intended for bottle babies. But as always you may have a baby with a mother that needs some extra help or attention, so this information may apply to any young puppy through the first several weeks of life.
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STIMULATION
For the first week or two, newborn puppies without a mother will need help going to the bathroom. And if not done before feeding, all bottle babies should be stimulated to urinate/defecate after every feeding. This is done by gently rubbing a damp cloth, tissue, baby wipe or cotton ball on your puppy’s genitals and rectum until they eliminate. Puppies should urinate at every feeding and defecate about once a day.
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After about the second week, these puppies will usually be able to go on their own without your assistance. Be aware that a mom would be constantly licking them so you will need to make sure that you are keeping them clean as well. Otherwise they may get urine burn on their stomachs, legs and feet. Use a moist wash cloth to bath them giving special attention to their lower bodies in particular which will drag thru urine and feces in their bedding several times a day. Or before or after each feeding.
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A healthy puppy will have pale yellow urine. If it is clear, it can indicate they are dehydrated. Watching pee and poop is always valuable for analyzing the health of your puppy and catching potential issues early.
In the first couple weeks of life I find that puppy poop can range from being dark brown to yellow and from very formed and firm to very loose. For the most part if the puppies are having regular daily bowel movements, and eating well, I do not change anything.
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If the poop looks seedy and yellowish, that usually is the result of overeating or the milk may be very rich. When bottle feeding I’ll either reduce the amount I’m feeding a little or dilute the food with water just a bit to see if that helps. Not a big concern regardless.
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CONSTIPATION
If your puppy doesn’t have a bowel movement for a feeding or two, do not panic. But if they go 24 hours, they may be constipated. If they stop eating or their bellies become hard and distended these can be signs that your puppy is constipated. It is not uncommon that babies like this can become constipated because of a change in their diet.
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Enema
Using a 1 cc. syringe with a tapered end can be used for giving an enema if the puppy is quite small. Google “soap suds enema” for detailed directions on giving an enema to a small puppy. Basically you’re going to mix a little dishwashing soap with water until it feels greasy. Squirting about 1 cc into the puppies rectum and wait. If it doesn’t help move things along within 30 minutes, repeat.
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Also sometimes simply using a thermometer that is lubricated with a tiny bit of petroleum jelly or soapy water made with dishwashing liquid (it will just feel greasy) and inserted as if you were taking their temperatures, can be sufficient to get things moving along.
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Oral Options
You may try adding a drop or two of mineral oil to their formula.
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Some other options are a little dab of maple or karo syrup every few hours or probiotics such as plain live culture yogurt, Benebac (a dog specific probiotic) or a similar product.
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Milk of Magnesia is also very effective. So much so that you might expect diarrhea if you use too much. For a newborn, a drop on their tongue every 4 hours should relieve their constipation fairly quickly.
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DIARRHEA
Diarrhea is common in puppies and may be caused by parasites, viruses, bacteria, food changes (e.g., formula that is too concentrated, a new brand of formula), stress, overfeeding and other causes. If the diarrhea is mild and the puppy is otherwise alert and vigorous, you can try giving less food more often and monitor the pup closely.
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If the diarrhea is extremely watery, white or light colored this can indicate stomach upset. I may start with just diluting the formula with extra water for a few feedings to see if that helps. If it continues, I replace the formula with two parts Pedialyte to 1 part Karo syrup for a few feedings to allow their stomach to settle.
If diarrhea is severe, lasts more than three or four feedings, or contains blood or obvious parasites, you should see a veterinarian and take a sample of the fecal for testing.​