BASIC RULES OF HOUSING 

While there are basic requirements for all situations, housing needs can vary based on the size of the pregnant dog (small, medium and large dogs), size of puppies, and the overall size of the litter.  
The following are rules that apply to all regardless of whether you have a pregnant dog, newly whelped litter or orphan bottle babies.

Sanitizing  
The foster space must be easy to sanitize. 

• No carpet, poorly sealed/gapped flooring that could hold and harbor germs, upholstered furniture, rugs, or other porous surfaces that can’t be properly disinfected. 

• All bedding, blankets, toys, bowls, etc. should be either machine washable or made of a non-porous material that can be cleaned with a bleach solution. 

• Walls, cages, crates, boxes, whelping boxes, playpens, etc. that are used for containment should also be able to be sanitized.    

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Quarantine 

NOTE: Parvo will be the main focus of my discussion and recommendations here because of the deadly nature of this virus and the challenges of treating it.  

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Your fosters should stay quarantined until they are fully vaccinated.  For adults, that's usually after one vaccination.  For puppies, that's after at least three or four shots and over 16 weeks of age. Quarantine should include the following considerations:

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• They should be kept separated from other animals, people, and things that may have been exposed.  In particular, to Parvo.  

• They should be isolated to a space that protects them from casual contact.  Such as the nose of a neighbor dog through fencing, hands reaching over fence or into a kennel by well meaning strangers, etc.

• Keep in mind that people and the mother dog can carry Parvo into the quarantined area on their feet, hands, clothing, etc. 

• Traffic into the quarantine area should be done with care.  Being aware of where you or others entering the space have walked.  It is wise to keep a spare pair of slippers or socks just outside the housing area that you wear only in this space.   

Exceptions to Quarantine

• If you have no history of Parvo in and around your home, it may be safe to allow the mother dog and puppies to be loose throughout your house.  Recommend a good mopping with a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 32 parts water).  

• If you know that you’ve had no Parvo in a fenced yard that is not accessible by other animals, that too may be safe.  But use extreme caution until puppies have received at least two vaccines.   

• Hard surfaces outside such as pavement, sidewalks, and blacktop that are less porous and are exposed to the sun are safer for puppy traffic. As heat and sun (24 hours of exposure) deactivates Parvo virus.  It can be safe to allow puppies outside in these areas in a playpen or kennel. 

• After puppies have received at least three vaccines and are 16 weeks old, it is safe for them to be in public places, on the grass and dirt and even be around other dogs.

Puppy Proofing

Ensure that you have properly puppy-proofed all areas that puppies will have access to. Especially after 4 or 5 weeks of age when puppies become mobile and begin using their mouths to explore the world.  Items such as kids' toys, plants, power cords, or other such items all can be a danger if within reach of your puppies.  Any item that is left out is “fair game” to a puppy.

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HOUSING DURING & AFTER DELIVERY

General Discussion

First the most important consideration before actual physical housing is providing a quiet, private space for your pregnant dog and/or new mother.  Whether it is an unused bathroom, laundry room, a box in a bedroom with the door closed, a kennel or playpen in your garage or basement, the important thing for having a happy mom is that she has her own space.

Preferably a private space separated from other animals, people and activity in your home. If a pregnant dog feels unsafe or stressed in her environment, she may even try to suppress her labor and delay delivery until she feels she is in a safe place.

Quiet and private are the ideal qualities of good housing. If you can’t offer her an isolated space, try to provide at least visual privacy, such as hanging blankets or visual barriers around her area. Blankets can be hung over a kennel or crate and secured with clothes pins, chip clips, or paper binder clips. Blankets over the kennel or crate is better than being out in the open.

NOTE:  Do not hang blankets inside of a crate or kennel.  The mother dog may, in her nesting pull them down and create an area where puppies may get trapped and/or hurt.

  
Keep in mind your home is always going to be less stressful than a shelter so don’t let not having the perfect space available stop you from fostering a pregnant dog.  

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Housing Options

Actual housing can vary depending on your space and home.  It also can vary depending on the size of the mother dog and impending litter.  But having something to contain the puppies once born and as they grow over at least the first few weeks is important.  Partly for their safety and to contain the mess they will make. 

Ideally a whelping box works great to contain the litter for the first few weeks.  More on whelping boxes in a moment.  I use large 5x10 kennels with a whelping box filling half of that kennel for large dogs in my garage. 

For small or toy breed mothers, you don’t need much space at all and in fact, not only is it unnecessary but not optimal.  During the first several weeks you want mom to be confined with their puppies.  As such you can use a small playpen in a spare bedroom or bathroom.  A basement, laundry room, etc. would also work well as long as they aren’t heavily trafficked.  Playpens work well for smaller dogs, most can be modified to be smaller or expanded as needed and are available in variable heights.  

The whelping container will serve as the home for your mom and litter hopefully for the first 3 weeks or more. Of course, as often is the case, this will depend on the size of your puppies and how many there are.  At some point, usually around 3 weeks, I may need to remove the pig rails (see Figure 5) to provide more space IF I feel confident that they were not at risk of being squished into a corner or side of the box by mom.  Also puppies progress at different rates and while some puppies will barely be up on their legs and walking at 3 weeks, others may be trying to crawl out of the box.   See Puppies – 3 weeks and beyond below.

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Whelping Box Options

The nesting or whelping area should be large enough for mom to comfortably lay to nurse and have sides high enough to prevent young puppies from escaping.  At the same time you want sides low enough for mom to comfortably get in and out.   She won’t want to go to the bathroom inside the area where her puppies are, so you need to provide her the ability to get out for bathroom breaks.
This can be a simple plastic kiddie pool (Figure 1) or specifically designed whelping box (Figure 2).  Raised garden planters like Figure 3 can also serve as great whelping boxes and for smaller dogs, a plastic underbed storage bin, Figure 4, can work very well too.  

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Figure 2:  Kiddie Pool                                                                    Figure 3 - EzWhelp Whelping Box

 

 

 

 

 

                      
Figure 4:  Planter                                                                           Figure 5: Storage Bin

 

 

There are pros and cons to each container but all are options I’ve used successfully.  All are normally available through local resources or online, can be cleaned and bleached between litters and are fairly durable.

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Kiddie pool (Figure 2): 

Pros:  Inexpensive, lightweight and actually can be found in various sizes from small to quite large anywhere from Dollar General to Walmart.  
Cons:  Not the easiest to store or transport.  They can crack and break over time.  The biggest con though is that they don’t allow for a pig rail.  A pig rail is literally a rail around the inside of the container to protect puppies from being accidentally stuck against the wall and smothered by the mother. These rails are installed just above the floor of the whelping box and create a safe space beneath the mother where the pups can retreat.  See Figure 6.

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Whelping Box (Figure 3): 

Pros:  These boxes are very durable, can be taken apart and stored easily, most can be made into various sizes and shapes, and most also come with pig rails to protect puppies.  
Cons:  Expensive (From $100 to $400 depending on manufacturer and size) and they’re only available online. No local source. 
 

Garden Planter (Figure 4):

Pros: Also durable, are less expensive ($70ish) than specialized whelping boxes, are fairly lightweight and can be disassembled for cleaning and storage.  You can sometimes find them at local hardware and big box stores. Available via Amazon.
Cons:  While more readily available than manufactured boxes, with the cost of the planter ($70ish) and the need to buy and build your own pig rails, Figures 7 & 8, the cost is about the same as the less expensive manufactured boxes.  

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Figure 7:  Pig rails made from PVC pipe                              Figure 8: Pig rails in a garden box

 

 

Storage Bin or Tub (Figure 5):

Pros:  Inexpensive, readily available, easy to store, and clean.  Some variations in size and for toy/small dogs, they are pretty durable.
Cons: No pig rail with these boxes but could be made easily enough and for the small size, likely very affordable. 

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Bedding

While mom and babies will need much the same bedding as I described already for newborn puppies, the fact that your foster is going to give birth in the box changes suggestions a little. At least initially. 

During whelping, DO NOT be concerned about providing comfortable bedding!  It’s going to be messed up.  Either because mom is going to nest which will entail pacing, scratching and digging at it.  Or because of the fluids and mess that will be made during the actual birthing process.

A large washable potty pad, a fitted sheet that I put under the sides of my whelping box to attempt to hold it place, large disposable potty pads, or a single blanket that I clip to the side of the whelping box or pool are all good options.  Worth a try but moms can be relentless in their destruction or creation of their nest so don’t be frustrated if your bed is quickly unmade.  

Once the puppies are all born, you’ll want to try and get clean bedding down underneath mom and babies.  At a minimum I want to rid the box of wet bedding.  Replacing with a single blanket or large washable potty pad are preferred.  Nothing that can get easily bunched up or that a puppy can get tangled in.

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Temperature Control

Providing a warm environment for newborn puppies, who are unable to regulate their body temperature from the time they are born until around 3 weeks of age, is crucial. The difference with having a mom and a litter is that mom will help to provide warmth to the puppies.  But I still try to keep the room or area as warm as possible and always put a heating pad in one area of the whelping container underneath the bedding.   

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If your floor under your container is cold, you might put flattened cardboard boxes underneath it for insulation from the cold.  Also the egg carton style of foam mattress toppers can also be an excellent foundation under your bedding.  They work better than blankets or tarps for this problem.

See Hypothermia for more information on this very important part of bottle baby care.   

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LABOR AND DELIVERY

Whelping Supplies 

At a minimum, have on hand the following:

• Calcium

• Cotton towels or hand towels

• Heating pad

• Karo or similar source of sugar

• Suction bulb

• Scissors

See Appendix 1 for a comprehensive list of supplies and why you may need them.  

 

Whelping Phases

1.  Approximately 3 to 7 days prior to whelping, behaviors may begin to vary.  
     a.    May experience first signs of nesting, anxiety, digging, panting and unusual tiredness. 
     b.    May have small contractions, like Braxton Hicks type contractions.
2.  Within 24 hours of whelping she may not be interested in eating or eat less than normal. 
3.  Within 12 hours of whelping her puppies, she begins real contractions.
     a.    May seek a quiet space or become clingy.  
     b.    Pay attention to her now as you don’t want her to go off to whelp on her own in some unplanned location.
4.  This first stage of labor can last hours. 
     a.    Cervix will dilate.  You should notice swelling and possibly even a little water bubble to protrude from her vagina.  Don’t break it. 
            i.    This bubble is the outer amniotic sac of a puppy nearest vagina.  May be clear or greenish – both colors normal. This confirms dilation.  

​NOTE: Green fluids are common and normal.  Mustard yellow is not normal. 

           ii.    You need not do anything at this time.  All normal.
          iii.    She won’t be pushing at this stage.  Bubble may stay out or go back in.  
5. Once she is completely dilated, she will begin hard contractions. Pushing puppies from the uterine horn into the birth canal.
     a.    This however can take hours.
     b.    She may pace or sleep or have short little pushes.
6.  Pushing will intensify.  May be a couple of pushes and arched tail and puppy delivery.  Or pushing can take an hour or more. 
     a.    If pushing takes a long time, you can offer her water or ice cream to help keep her energy up and her hydrated.
     b.    She may twist around towards her vagina and begin licking even before the puppy is presented. 
7.  Whether you allow mom to chew thru the umbilical cord or you assist by clamping and cutting the cord (you can tie off with dental floss) is a personal choice.  

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The Whelping Pause

• It is not unusual for a mother dog to have one or more puppies and then seems to stop contracting.  This is completely natural.  It allows her a chance to rest and for the other puppies to move into the birthing canal.  This is not an emergency.

• The cessation of contractions can last hours.  As long as the mother is not pushing and straining but simply resting, there is nothing to be concerned over. 

• She may eat, drink, clean up all her puppies and herself, nurse the puppies, potty, and sleep.  Feel free to offer her food, ice cream, or water.  Anything she might show interest in.

• If she seems comfortable, give her the time to progress as nature tells her. 

• Only if she is whining, pushing, straining, etc. for an hour without results is it necessary to get to your vet for help.

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Eclampsia, Calcium Deficiency and Dosing

Eclampsia

First know that Canine Eclampsia is not the same as human Pre-Eclampsia.  
Eclampsia, originally called "milk fever" as it associated with the production of milk and the cause is either a shortage of calcium or the mechanisms in her body that work to release calcium from her bones where calcium is stored no longer function properly. 

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Do not give any extra calcium during pregnancy.  If needed, only during labor and/or after delivery of her puppies.  While there can be some benefit to calcium during labor to help move contractions along, that is not eclampsia and is not the urgent reason to give calcium during whelping.

 

Eclampsia can occur at any time during nursing, but it is most likely to occur during the first 3 weeks of lactation, which begins within minutes after birth. Eclampsia occurs most commonly in small dogs with large litters, but it can occur in ANY dog after whelping.

Symptoms

The onset of symptoms can be rapid and death can following an hour or so.  So do not delay treatment.
•    Shows little or no interest in her puppies.  
•    May initially be restless and pacing.  She will eventually reach a point where she can no longer walk.  She may stagger or drag her feet and legs.  And eventually she may be unable to walk or stand at all
•    Panting constantly and profusely 
•    Run a high temperature and will feel hot to the touch.  
•    She may go into shock and if so her temperature will drop below normal.
•    Facial muscle twitching

Treatment 

The treatment is calcium and you can begin treatment as soon as you notice and verify the symptoms. Give calcium by mouth in dosages as described below.  The dog is not likely going to willingly eat anything offered so you will need to either force feed by placing it on her tongue or in her mouth, closing her mouth and stroking her throat. If using Tums, you can dilute in water and put into a syringe.  

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Supplementing calcium orally and giving more at the first sign of restlessness can help to prevent possibly eclampsia.  And it is easier to prevent than treating once full blown.

Calcium Dosage

If you see symptoms as described above, you should give the mother a dose of calcium every 30 to 60 minutes until the symptoms abate.  Dose depends on the size of the mother.

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​Calcium Dose

• Small breeds - 600 - 800 mg. oral calcium - each dose

• Large breeds - 1000 - 2000 mg. - each dose

• Giant breeds - 2000 or more - each dose​​​​​

Even after the symptoms stop, you should continue to supplement for the duration of her nursing to prevent its possible return.  The dose will essentially be the same but with the following changes.

• She’ll receive the dose for her size for each puppy in her litter over the course of the day.

• So if you have a large breed mom (50 pounds or more) who has 8 puppies.  She’ll need 8000 mg of calcium per day. 

• Assuming you feed her 4 times per day, she will get 2000 mg each feeding.

• Over the weeks of her nursing, you’ll slowly decrease this down to zero.

Sources of Calcium

• Calsorb 

• DocRoy’s Healthy Bones 

• OralCal Plus Breeder’s Edge

• Tums (dissolved in water and given with a syringe)  

• Calcium Citrate

 

Calcium Deficiency

While it is not always known why it occurs, some mothers will become calcium deficient during and after whelping.  The results can be behaviors that are not simply bothersome but dangerous.

 

Symptoms may include:

• Anxiousness; moms constantly up and down, unable to relax their bodies

• Not allowing nursing because of extreme anxiety

• Laying on their tummies instead of their sides, preventing babies from eating

• Overprotectiveness towards you or her puppies.  To the point of killing and even eating their babies.

Calcium supplementation is necessary at the first signs of the above behaviors and as with eclampsia, daily through weaning.  You should continue calcium while the mother is nursing and slowly wean the amount down over time until she stops feeding her puppies.

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The Unsettled Mom (aka Meanie Moms)

While struggling with the best title of this section, the point of it is to educate people to the realities of caring for moms and newborns.  And one unpleasant reality is that a mother may kill one or more of her puppies.  We often never know why.  It could be the result of calcium deficiency or eclampsia as described earlier.  Or something else.

Whatever the cause, it must be taken seriously for the benefit of mom and puppies. Calcium can help head those issues off.  

You should be especially vigilant in the first few hours and days after whelping to the mother’s attitude towards her puppies.  Beyond the potential of an accidental killing where she might step on, lie on or smother a puppy, there are other reasons to be watchful that include:
•    It can happen simply as a result of the mother feeling unsettled with her environment and/or new puppies.  The result of stress or anxiety.  
•    A mother may also act out towards her puppies because she may not recognize them as her own.  This is more common but not exclusive with C Section deliveries.
•    While less emergent, she may also totally ignore her puppies and not provide necessary care willingly. While she may not be acting ugly towards them, she may demonstrate a disinterest in cleaning and caring for them including letting them nurse.
•    Last but not least, there are instances where the death of a puppy is a deliberate act that may occur because the mother senses a puppy is sick, disabled or injured.  Sufficient experience has taught me that mothers know things we cannot.  In even a domesticated mom’s mind, a weaker puppy may prove to be a risk to her entire litter.   While obviously not living in the wild, this behavior is still an inherent instinct in mother dogs.

During these early days, you will need to stay close by or have a baby cam trained on the mom so you may observe how she is responding to and handling her puppies.  

NOTE: If she is trying to harm a puppy, you must remove the puppy from mom and only allow it to be with her when you are present and supervising.  You will need to bottle raise them until they are older.   

In all these cases, I recommend supplementing with calcium as described for preventing eclampsia.  With the same sense of urgency and dosing during the episodes of concerning behavior and then through weaning. 

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After Whelping Expectations

Just some other things to expect post-whelp.

• Some moms will not eat for a few days after they deliver.  Others will eat during delivery.  Definitely encourage her to drink.

• Expect to see some very nasty poop from mom when she does go after delivering her puppies.

• Moms will have discharge for days if not weeks after delivering her puppies.  It can be stringy, bloody and dark. I’ve had moms have such discharge as long as 6 weeks after delivering their puppies. 

• Also expect that she may not want to go to the bathroom for a day or two after delivery.  She may not want to leave her litter but also will not want to defecate in the area around her puppies.  This may require taking her outside or away from the whelping area, even if it means forcing her outside to use the bathroom if she hasn’t gone for 48 hours.

NOTE: Keep in mind she might act like she needs to go to the bathroom while she is delivering her puppies.  If you elect to let her go out, please do so on leash and take a towel.  It is not unusual that the act of using the bathroom can turn into a puppy being born.

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Got Milk?  

Hopefully your mother has plenty of milk or will within a few days.  But sometimes moms do not and need help. Both with encouraging their milk to come in and also in feeding her puppies until she is able.

Puppies sucking will be the best thing to help bring mom’s milk down.  Even if it is nonproductive for them, it isn’t in vain.  Their suckling action stimulates the release of a hormone called oxytocin in the mother dog's body, which triggers the "milk let-down" reflex, causing the milk to flow readily from her mammary glands.

There are other things you can do to help:

• Make sure your mother dog is eating plenty of a quality food and getting plenty of water.  If she is not eating well, encourage her by adding canned food to her food or if not drinking well you might offer her some low sodium beef or chicken broth. 

• Fenugreek capsules, available at drug stores or online.  2-3 capsules, 3-4x a day sprinkled over your mother’s food.

• There are Mother’s Puddings that are also recommended and recipes available online.  

While you await her milk to come in, make sure you are supplementing with formula focusing on the smallest puppies in the litter or those that appear to feel less full.  If mom has plenty of milk, you’ll need to do virtually nothing for them except a daily touch test and take good care of mom.  You should expect that with sufficient milk the puppies may nurse for 45 minutes at a time or longer.  Don’t be concerned if it seems that the puppies are sleeping all the time.  In the first week, puppies should sleep about 90% of the time and eat the remaining 10%.  Enjoy this lull in the action.

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Newborn Monitoring 

During the first week to 10 days I make it a point to touch every puppy every day to check and swab cords, and to feel for good body mass, hydration and to get a look at their tummies to see if they feel and look full. Otherwise, my handling of them is minimal. 

Daily Newborn Check

• Body mass and weight gain

• Umbilical cords – swab with a simple antiseptic every day until cord dries and falls off

• Bellies and feet for discoloration (see Infections below)

• Temperature 

• Hydration

• Discharge from nose

• Listen to lungs – do they sound clear or crunchy or congested

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Supplies to keep handy

 

• Thermometer

• Scales

• Heating pad or other heat source

• Karo or other sugar source

• Bottle and formula

• Feeding Tubes 

• Betadine or iodine - antiseptic

• Neosporin

• Fluids/syringe